How to Tie a Quilt with Yarn To tie a quilt is a quick way to finish a quilt which is to be loved and used. As with everything, there are a few ways of doing a tied quilt, this is the way “I” do it.
It’s fun for me to draw quilt blocks out on graph paper. They make me happy and I love the ideas they sparks as I do them. This is one of my quilt blocks.
It’s Tuesday Thread, where I am breaking down quilting techniques one stitch at a time!
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Today, is the quarter square triangles, those clever little pieces that add movement quilt blocks. Sometimes called hourglass units, these triangles are made by combining two half square triangles and then slicing again. They’re perfect for stars, pinwheels, and any design that needs a touch of symmetry and flair.
I am taking the mystery away and showing you how to do it easily.
We have made a square, a triangle and some basic quilt info. NOW it’s time for some FUN quilt block patterns. Don’t over think these, just step by step.
Quarter Square Triangle
Cut 2 squares, 1 each color – your squares needs to be cut 1 ¼” larger than the finished size you need, example you need a 4” finished square cut square
5 ¼” x 5 ¼”
On lightest color on the back, pencil mark from corner to corner.
Sew ¼” from the line, on each side of the line.
With scissors cut on each of the 2 lines, open up, move the match colors, pin and sew you will have 2 blocks
A star quilt block can be as simple or intricate as you like, perfect for both beginners and experienced quilters. This quilt block pattern has a finished size of eight inches by eight inches. Have fun with color as you are making yours. The white on my quilt block helps make the other colors pop or showcase them. Here to see. The Ladies on Etsy AND it’s Now in Print – Kindle and on Amazon Prime
Cut 4 Pink– 2 7/8” x 2 7/8” Cut 4 White 2 7/8” x 2 7/8” Make Triangles – How I make my triangles
Cut 8 Blue – 1 ½” x 1 ½”
Cut 8 Purple – 1 ½” x 1 ½”
Cut 16 White – 1 ½” x 1 ½”
Sew as shown
Beth Ann is The Quilt Ladies
Beth Ann is a Quilter and an Author who decided to self-publish her books and quilt pattern books
I hand piece or hand quilt EVERY Monday at my small group quilting group. Really…I’m just to lazy to get my sewing machine carried in and set up, plus then I couldn’t walk over. A new member arrived last Monday and she asked LOTS of questions about hand piecing. So, I’m re-posting my basic hand piecing class
I feel all quilter’s should at some time do hand piecing, I know you think I’m nuts, but it brings me back to the tradition of what quilters are all about. I try to do one every year or so. Your piece need not be a huge project, but please, try it.
This is my travel quilt box, would you believe it’s an old Ethel M Chocolate box from Las Vegas about 35 years ago. It has everything but scissors, you just can’t travel with them anymore. I have gotten into the habit of keeping it all together. This box has been on many vacations, fishing trips and even at baseball/football games in many towns, when the boys still lived with us.
Cut an assortment of fabric,
For one block you will need
8 – 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″
and
4 – 2 1/2″ x 1 1/2″
I just cut a pile of each and put the colors together as I piece.
Mark a 1/4″ seam line on fabric back, I use a ruler and pencil.
Knot your thread and do a rocking stitch. After a bit you will not need the line, notice my thumb,
I use it as my measurement guide, some add a mark on their nail, but I don’t like messing up my nails, aka manicure !
I use a thread about 18-20 inches long and string piece, knotting at the beginning and end of each block. Finger piece them open.
Draw seam line if needed. Place good fabric to good, pin and sew.
Open and finger press. Add 2 1/2″ x 1 1/2′ to side.
Draw sewing line, Pin and sew on line,
Finger press to the outside.
Take 2 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ and draw sewing line on each end, sew to 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ Do 2 times.
Draw seam line if needed. Place good fabric to good, pin and sew.
This is the back of my hand pieced block.
Two finished blocks, each block has a finished size of 4″
Take some time, don’t take it all too serious, pick a comfy chair, good light and just have some HAND piecing fun.
Thank you for supporting my Etsy shop and my Quilt Ladies Book
My Great-Great Grandmother’s Quilt This quilt was a gift to my mother from her Great Grandmother. And then a Gift to me from My Mother. Making it by, GREAT-GREAT Grandmother’s Gift to ME ! Well…That’s how I like to look at it.
I never met her and my mom only remembers helping with the peddle sewing machine. I use this quilt and love sleeping under it. It goes in the washer and now living here in Florida and not having a clothes line it does go it the dryer….Yes… it bothers me too, but…. the colors are still very bright, but the Florida sun won on these photo’s.
This may seem a bit strange, but I love the colors in this dress, it’s from a Vogue magazine probably 6-8 years ago, (LOVE IT) and it’s how I picked the colors for my quilt B. Annie
This quilt post has been used and shared of years it really does work.
I do have to say that after all these many years, I don’t over think color anymore. I have used some real dog of fabrics and when it’s all together…the quilt seems to work on it’s own.
One of the best things about quilting is the Wonderful Fabric’s you get to purchase, lots and lots of fabric. Sign up top right of this site to receive notice of new posts, I will NEVER send a newsletter, etc. I just don’t like them!?!
And with that I have to add,
This is the way I do my fabric, you do you ! Purchasing fabric is fun, please, always buy the best fabric you can afford and what you like. For quilts you will use 100% cotton fabric. Fabric will cost between $6 and $17 per yard. If you are just purchasing for a maybe project, I do mostly cuts 1 to 2 yards. If you have a quilt pattern, follow the recommendations, but as I say in my books, “Please think of purchasing more fabric than needed, as a pattern designer I have no idea how you will cut and use your fabric.” Purchased cotton yardage, I wash, dry and iron my fabric before starting any project. Please think of purchasing more fabric than needed, a pattern designer has no idea how you will cut and use your fabric.
When talking about fabric it always brings up the conversation of washing fabric. Here is what I do,
I wash and dry all my fabric BEFORE sewing cutting and piecing a quilt. You only have to pull out one finished quilt from the washer and see bleeding to know you must/should wash all fabric.
Cotton fabrics bleeding means, the dyes used on the fabric will become loose when washing. It’s said that it’s common is cottons, but all fabrics can bleed. Dyes will/can stain other fabrics in a prewashing, the biggest problem is the dye transfer after a quilt is finished. Last weeks Tuesday’s Thread HERE
When cotton fabric is made it is stretched on a loom, pulling the fibers straight. A stabilizer is applied to keep fabric straight and that is what you are washing off. Washing allows the fabric to relax and return to a more natural state. A dryer lets the fabric relax or shrink. All cotton fabrics are different you cannot know the amount any fabric will shrink.
Knowing a cotton fabric will not bleed and not shrink is worth a bit of time for the perfect quilt in the end.
When prewashing quilt fabric, I use my daily machine washer detergent, the same type that will be used when the complete quilt is washed. Same with the dryer, use the setting that will be used when the quilt is completed.
With 100% cotton fabric after washing and drying you will need to clip away all the threads that have twisted. If fabric is wrinkles you can shake it to smooth out more wrinkles, or press the fabric with a dry iron.
It’s a habit for me to wash/dry as soon as I purchase fabric. You will develop YOUR way of caring for your quilt fabrics.
When using/cutting the fabric I will press and starch it BEFORE any cutting and square up the fabric so that all cuts with a rotary cutter are straight. I use what I use for clothing as my starch just plain old Niagara brand, it makes it just a bit stiff and will washed very easily.
All this being said, “I do not EVER wash contest quilt fabric before sewing, or quilting the quilt.” That is just me, you do YOU !
GIVE it a TRY ! it’s easy, all you use is triangles and squares. Here is one of my four inch quilt blocks, don’t over think it. Sew as you would any quilt block.
Old Maids Puzzle. This quilt block has a finished size of four inches by four inches. Making the quilt as shown in the book you will have a finished quilt thirty inches by thirty inches, perfect as a lap quilt or a baby quilt.
I made this quilt block with very simple colors and background, but you can have lots of fun with it. Remember to press NOT IRON a quilt block and I always press as I go each seam. I have a small ironing board right by my sewing machine. I posted how I do quilt triangles
Welcome to my Tuesday Threads: Quilt How-To with The Quilt Ladies! Every Tuesday, I’m sharing simple, step-by-step quilting techniques straight from my sewing room to yours.
I have so many brand new to quilting or if you just want a quick refresher, these posts are here to help. Grab your fabric, pour a cup of something cozy, and let’s get stitching, one technique at a time!
I am starting with pressing because I see SO many new quilters pressing as they would IF you were sewing a dress, with quilt blocks you do NOT press the seam open, you press to the darker fabric and here is why. NO Steam, a hot, dry iron.
press your quilt block to the darker fabric, here the redseam opened and how the nest into each other
When you press both layers of fabric and the seam allowance all to one side, you’re giving that seam more fabric layers to support it. This extra layer of fabric over the stitching line helps protect your thread from wear and tear over time.
As your quilt gets used, loved, washed, and tugged on, the seams take a lot of stress. By pressing to one side, you’re wrapping that stitching line in a little fabric shield. The thread sits just under the fold, with fabric on top of it and underneath it. This extra cushion means the thread is less likely to snap or break down over the years.
Press to the Dark Side… Always (Well, Almost Always)
I HOPE you have heard this rule a hundred times: “Press your seams to the dark side.” But why?
It’s not just some old quilting superstition. There’s a real reason for it!
When you sew two fabrics together—especially a light fabric next to a dark one—the seam allowance can show through the lighter fabric if it’s pressed the wrong way. This is called “shadowing.” Nobody wants to finish a quilt top, hold it up to the light, and suddenly see dark seam lines peeking through those lovely light fabrics.
By pressing your seam allowance toward the darker fabric, you’re tucking that extra bulk safely under the dark side—where it stays hidden.
Press, Don’t Iron: Up and Down, Not Side to Side
Now let’s talk about the motion of pressing. When you’re at your ironing board, it’s tempting to treat your quilt block like a wrinkled shirt and slide the iron back and forth. But don’t!
In quilting, you want to “press,” not “iron.”
That means setting your iron down straight onto the fabric, holding for a few seconds, then lifting it up and moving it to the next spot.
Why?
Dragging your iron side to side can stretch the fabric, especially along diagonal seams (the bias). This leads to wonky blocks, wavy edges, and points that don’t quite match later.
This a little thing, but the pressing of the quilt block the right way can make your quilt pop just a little more, and last a bit longer.
I use these needles, sometimes a larger one and sometimes not. After doing them I really think it’s how I feel that day ! 
I like to use, “Peaches and Cream” yarn, soft but NOT TOO soft, it has to be to hold the knot. 
Come back through again,
DO NOT cut yarn, travel to next knot and repeat. 
Cut yarn 
I do all the knots and then cut them all at the same time.
As I tie each one, I lay the yarn going down. 
